Saturday, September 14, 2024

Day 8: Qaqortoq, Greenland

My day started in the early morning hours with a group text saying the Aurora Borealis is out.  I debated getting up and checking it out or rolling over and going back to sleep.  The thought of staying in my warm bed sounded better.  I talked myself into getting up because it might be my only chance to see them.  So I got up threw on some warm clothes over my pajamas and headed to deck 12.  It was so windy and cold but man was I glad I made the effort. 
I am sure you have seen all the fancy photos people post with amazing colors . . . in my opinion those are fake since they are taken with filters and special settings that aren't visible to the naked eye.  I was happy to just watch in the natural beauty and not altered.  After a few minutes, it was back to bed. 

I think I am still on a high from our first stop in Greenland, but today we are at the city of Qaqortoq, Greenland.  Qaqortoq is the largest city in southern Greenland and the 11th largest city in the country.  During the summer about 3,000 people call it home but in winter there are only about 2,000 residents.

The weather was not great and the fog was so thick the tender boats could not take us to land.  In fact they had started taking people ashore and had to stop because you literally could not see anything. 

Thankfully, the captain was patient and waited it out and an hour later we were back on tender boats headed to shore.  Today, I signed up for an art walking tour that visits stone works around the city known as Stone & Man.

The project is the work of local Qaqortoq artist Aka Høegh, who endeavored to turn her home town into a permanent open air art gallery, and essentially, a work of art in and of itself. With the help over a dozen artists hailing from other Nordic countries like Norway, Iceland, Finland, Sweden, and of course Greenland itself, Høegh oversaw the creation of 24 separate carvings and sculptures. Some of the works took the shape of fully shaped sculptures made out of local boulders, while others looked more like recreations of ancient tribal markings of fish and whales.

It was interesting to see them, learn the story of each work as we were guided around town.

I think this one below was my favorite because on the far right there is a narwhal.  I always thought narwhals were mystical and did not exist.  They are rare but they are out there!  Who knew?
One story that I remembered was this carving below.  It is a self-portrait that is a single lady all alone.  Back in the day, the ladies washed their hair with urine so it made it easier to form a big bun on top of their head.  I bet they did not have many dates with that smell! 
These towns are so small that you can walk the town quickly.  I really enjoyed the slower pace to just enjoy the moment.  I walked around town, checked out the grocery store, and some of the landmarks around town.  I loved all the colorful houses again.  As you can see the weather was foggy but as the day went on it lifted and came back and lifted.  The weather in Greenland is unpredictable.

A few other landmarks around town Church of Our Savior

Memorial Fountain

Qaqortoq Musuem that was filled with local history and artifacts.  I really enjoyed seeing the traditional dress clothing. 
The close up of the beading is amazing!

I thought this street sign was funny and well can you imagine if you had to write that on all your communication?


Tassuunnaqquunnerit Tamaasa which translates to I think of you every time I pass by.  I would think about you every time I had to write that, and I'm sure it wouldn't be fondly.

Just another iceberg hanging out as we leave town.  

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